Half a year ago I’ve started to use KiCad for new PCB designs I’m working on. I already wanted to try out KiCad for quite some time. Its release 4.0 and the latest changes in EagleCAD (annoying ads and recently being bought by Autodesk) were enough pressure to switch. And what should I say: after dealing with the rather unhandy library management and some cryptic error messages I really now enjoy KiCads workflow.
From time to time I have (and take) the chance to dumpster dive for electronic parts. Recently, on one of these occasions, an old piece of hardware felt into my hands: a “Moser Galvanosan” galvanic stimulator.
To be honest, I’ve had no idea what it was and at first I only thought it would be a nice case for another project I was working on. After some research (out of curiosity) I thought the device is interesting enough to take some photos of its interior and write about it.
Disclaimer: I’m totally not into alternative medicine or stimulation current therapy. I’m just taking an interesting looking piece of hardware apart, that’s all!
While trying to explain the meaning of the carry digit during addition an subtraction to my oldest son, I’ve given him a nice little device to play with: the Addifix-9 number cruncher.
I’ve briefly mentioned this device before in a post. This time I’ve made a short video about the mechanical calculator in action and present more details:
In the 1950s/60s The Addifix series was sold as “Addifix-9 Taschenrechenmaschine” by the German mail-order company Neckermann. Its predecessor was the Addiator from Carl Kübler which was sold since the early 1920s [Source: sliderulemuseum.com]. The underlying mechanical principle is quite old (an documented example is the mechanical calculator by Claude Perrault from the 17th century).
The Addifix is a pocket-sized (13 x 9 cm) slide adder that can be used from both sides – one side for addition and one for subtraction. The slides (one for each digit) are handled with a metal stylus.
I recently bought a few powerbanks to replace by self-made battery-packs and to have an “emergency” power supply for my iPad. (I always forget to charge my iPad during the day and get angry about myself in the evening.)
To test the power consumption on my devices (without always hanging a volt meter in series to my devices) I’ve bought a USB voltage and current meter. The device is simple to use – just stick it in between the device you want to test and your computer/ charger/ powerbank. Its OLED display shows the voltage, current, power, and capacity (nice, but why?) of the attached device. Continue reading “USB Voltage and Current Meter [Review]”
A few weeks ago I read a post (on Hackaday) about a quite versatile component tester and considering its low price I yielded to the temptation to buy one on eBay…
Well, it arrived this week and so far I’m quite impressed how flexible it is in identifying various components (capacitors, diodes, transistors) I’ve stuck into it. It is surprisingly accurate as far as I can compare it to my multimeter (which on the other hand is pretty cheap).One of the reasons of buying it is my hope to keep its firmware up-to-date due to the pretty active community on microcontroller.net — see this mostly German thread) on its development. It is built around an Atmel ATMega328. Continue reading “Mega328 (Transistor Diode Triode Capacitance ESR) Tester [Review]”
About two years ago we started switching from compact fluorescent lamps to LED lamps, mainly to avoid the mercury in the former ones. Also the longer lifespan of LEDs was a reason for us to switch. We currently have two types in our household: several cheap ones from Müller Licht (ALDI) and a bit more expensive ones from OSRAM. Guess which ones failed first…
The stated 100,000 on/off cycles or 25,000 hours of run-time (at least that’s what I remember from their package) were definitely not reached. Far from it.
OSRAM gives a 4-year guarantee as far as I understood from reading their website. But to be honest: who keeps a bill for a lamp bought with other purchases two years ago? At least I did not… Sigh. 🙁
The Raspberry Pi is shipped without a power supply — there is not even one specifically available for this board as far as I know. Any micro USB power supply with a least 700 mA should work. But I did not want to rely on no-name products since the board should run continuously and the web is full of reports of counterfeits. So I’m currently using a Nokia AC-16E power supply, bought directly from Amazon (not on the Marketplace). Additionally, I bought a Nokia AC-10E (more or less for free, as their combination allowed free shipping). Based on the way the two Nokia supplies were packed and labelled (including safety marks and QR-Codes) I believe they should be genuine.
I tested the Nokia supplies and another (cheap/crappy?) one from OTB I already had lying around. Update: As requested in a comment, I have also added measurements of the on-board voltage between TP1 and TP2 (more information about these pins can be found here).
On-board Voltage (standalone)
On-board Voltage (attached devices)
5 V / 1,000 mA
5 V / 1,200 mA
5 V / 1,000 mA
All three of them were able to support the Raspberry Pi board with several connected USB devices (passive hub, keyboard, mouse, wireless adapter) and a connected monitor (HDMI). There wasn’t much difference between them, all three ‘consumed’ about 3.8 W (6.7 VA) on average (1 hour; varying workload) and I did not notice any glitches. Still, a power drop was noticable when comparing the on-board voltage with and without any attached devices (sd-card only).
In conclusion: I think I will stick to the Nokia AC-16E, as I’m currently running my Raspberry Pi only with an attached wireless usb adapter. If I notice any glitches, I can still switch over to the Nokia AC-10E power supply. Something that looks beautiful is not necessarily always better… *sigh*
Update [2014-11]: I’ve in the mean time switched to the Nokia AC-10E supply which seems to be more stable. Also I am running a second Raspberry Pi B+ now with a 2 A power supply.